As you’ll see below, using the mineral oil technique resulted in a good screen, with plenty of fine detail. I was concerned that the fine detail might get lost because there may not be as much contrast between the translucent paper and the ink. You then expose the screen the same way in both techniques and you wash it out the same way The only difference is how you’re blocking the light and transferring the image to the screen.Īnd it works: When I first heard about the mineral oil method, I was skeptical about whether or not this would work as well as transparencies. Similar to a transparency, light can pass through the translucent parts of the oil-soaked paper but the ink on the page blocks light and therefore the emulsion behind it does not cure. The idea here is that when you apply the oil, the white paper turns a milky color, while the ink on the page stays a stark black.
#Photo emulsion screen printing plus#
I used off-brand baby oil as my source for mineral oil because baby oil is just mineral oil plus some fragrance. Well, that will most definitely cause a screen lock.This is still photo emulsion: The mineral oil technique is still a photo emulsion method, but instead of using a transparency I printed the design onto regular, white office paper and then coated the paper in mineral oil to make it translucent. And for some reason, you walk away from the wash booth.Īs a result, it allows the chemicals and reclaimer to dry on the emulsion before you reclaim it with a pressure washer.
The other prevalent reason for the emulsion to become screen locked into the mesh is when you reclaim the screen, you go to the wash booth and spray some reclaimer on it. And, likely, the emulsion becomes prominently hardened, and you will be unable to reclaim/remove it. So, when you work using a screen underexposed, you are basically putting these chemicals onto the emulsion. Due to your emulsion being under-cured, it absorbs other chemicals. What happens is that when you go on press and start working, the chemicals like ink, solvents, etc., will absorb the emulsion or vice versa. That is to say, and it is not fully cured. When you dry the screen and wash the stencil out and again dry the screen, the emulsion is still somewhat underexposed. The most common reason is that you are underexposing the emulsion to get your stencil off. What is why sometimes emulsion gets permanently locked into the mesh, which you cannot reclaim? Screen lock is happening due to a couple of reasons that emulsion can harden prominently. Underexposing Screens causes Locked Emulsion: Reasons for locked emulsion in screen printing as follows: 1. Screen lock can happen due to making the stencil much more difficult to remove to actually being unable to be removed at all. 02 Important Reasons for Locked Emulsion in Screen Printing: You can take the frame to someone who can re-mesh it or buy a new set at half of the cost. The only option left is to cut out the mesh from the frame using a razor blade. If you left the emulsion remover to dry on the screen, even the hard water pressure wouldn’t break the lock screen. In this way, you can reclaim screens without any issue. Then use a high water pressure or a car wash to melt away the stencils.
Don’t let it dry out else it could lock the screen again. Let the bleach stay for 30 seconds to 1 minute. Pour or spray the bleach solution and rub it with a scrub brush. Use bleach that is used in the water pool. It certainly helps if you have a tight mesh that resists high water pressure. High pressure may remove the hardened stencil from the mesh. You can use high-pressure water to remove stencils. To remove locked emulsion in screen printing, follow the step-by-step procedure below: 1. 02 Methods to Prevent Locked Emulsion in Screen Printing:.02 Important Reasons for Locked Emulsion in Screen Printing:.
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